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Step 1: Dig the planting hole

Remove the plant from the container and measure the root ball. From there, estimate the depth to dig. It should be 2 to 3 times more extensive than the root ball.

In order for the trees' roots to develop, the base of the trunk flare should be 2 to 3 inches above.

To prevent air pockets, you can create a tiny mound of soil in the base of the hole towards the pump and press firmly but do not over-compact the soil to prevent the tree from settling.

Step 2: Trim the roots and remove the nursery stake

We have tracked down that this progression is critical to hearty tree execution. Roots should in a perfect world transmit out directly from the focal point of the root ball. 

Lay the tree on its side with the root ball on a canvas and work gloved fingers in profoundly to slacken and free the roots. 

From there, you have to remove any orbiting roots to forestall supporting.  

Step 3: Place the tree in the center of the hole

The tree has simply one opportunity to be planted appropriately so ensure the profundity and position is right prior to filling in the dirt. 

The root flare should lie over the surface. On the off chance that it is excessively low or excessively high, lift the tree out and add or eliminate soil depending on the situation. Pivot the tree until you track down the best arrangement to get significant branches far from walkways or structures. 

After, hold the tree upstanding and fill in with soil around the root ball. Tenderly pack down soil around the root ball with a digging tool or the toe of your shoe to take out huge air pockets. 

As much as you can try not to step straightforwardly on the root ball, as this will harm and smaller the roots.

Step 4: Build a soil berm

A soil berm is a knoll surrounding the tree, 10-12 crawls from the storage compartment, which makes a bowl that will hold around 10 gallons of water. Within the berm ought to be at the external edge of the root ball. 

Keeping the root ball clammy is fundamental until the tree is set up. 

At the most fundamental level, soil berm in a generally level yard is tied in with raising the watcher's eye level. Level breadths are exhausting, and infusing a vertical component makes such a space seriously fascinating.

Step 5: Stake the tree

Remove the nursery stakes and look for a few stakes. Spot your hand on the truck of it  and see where it should be steadied. 

Afterwards, spot the two stakes inverse to one another in about 1.5' away from the tree trunk. Just make use of the third stake if necessary and put on an open side of the tree.

Step 6: Tie the tree

Ties should be set at the absolute bottom on the trunk where the tree can be held straight, by around 4 feet from the beginning. 

Hold the truck at the level you intend to tie it; the tree should stand straight without inclining. 

Have a tree staking straps or a soft tie to append the stakes. Permit sufficient leeway, so the tree can freely sway. 

Please don't use rope or wire, which harms the truck.

Step 7: Water the tree thoroughly

Fill the basin with water and build up the berm if necessary. Keep watering until set up. 

Permitting the dirt to totally dry out — or permitting it to remain spongy — will bring about a tree that is focused and subsequently more inclined to illness and invasion. Keeping the dirt reliably sodden is fundamental for solid trees.

Step 8: Add a mulch

Mulch is the foundation of a tree to hold dampness, moderate soil temperature limits, and helps to lessen grass. Normal mulches incorporate leaf litter, pine straw, moss, or treated the soil wood chips.

Cover the dirt 2-3 feet around the tree base with 3-5 crawls of mulch to hold dampness, stifle weeds and improve soil. Keep mulch 2-3 crawls from the trunk and root flare of the tree to keep creepy crawlies and rodents from tunneling in the mulch and biting on the bark. 

Step 9: Give follow-up care

Keep the soil moist all the time, yet not waterlogged. Water trees in any event once every week, notwithstanding precipitation, and then some oftentimes during sweltering, blustery climate. At the point when the dirt is dry underneath outside of the mulch, the time has come to water. Proceed until mid-fall, tightening as lower temperatures require less-incessant watering. 


Other subsequent considerations may incorporate minor pruning of branches harmed during the planting cycle. Prune sparingly subsequent to planting and defer important restorative pruning until a full period of development in the new area has happened. 

Finishing these nine basic steps will augment the probability that your new tree will develop and flourish in its new home.


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